2 Days in Portugal
To start off our morning in Lisbon, Julia introduced me to her favorite Brazilian treats. Before heading to Elevador de Santa Justa, the lift on Rua de Santa Justa that connects the lower streets of the Baixa district with the higher Largo do Carmo district, we stopped at Casa Brasileira for morning delights. Julia ordered a variety of Brazilian pastries for us to try: pão de queijo, brigadeiro, coxinha, e bolo de arroz. Paõ de queijo is a type of cheese bread, where the cheese is baked into a small roll. It is a popular snack or small breakfast in Brazil. Brigadeiro is a traditional dessert in Brazil. It looks like a little ball of chocolate, and it is made of condensed milk, cocoa powder, and chocolate sprinkles covering the outside layer. Coxinha is the Brazilian version of a croqueta, where shredded chicken is covered in fried dough. Bolo de arroz is a rice muffin popular in Portugal. All of these were delicious, and I would say my favorite was the coxhina and the paõ de queijo! Next, we stopped next door at the famous pastry shop, Manteigaria, to indulge in our first Pasteis de Nata of the weekend! Pasteis de Nata is a small warm tart filled with egg custard and topped with cinnamon.
Following our visit to Elevador de Santa Justa, where we marveled at the historic beauty of Lisbon from above, we opted for a more adventurous route instead of taking the lift. Discovering a hidden staircase concealed behind the shops of Rua do Carmo, nestled in an alleyway adjacent to the Zara storefront, provided us with a scenic and tranquil climb to the top. We headed down, traversing the cobblestone streets and steep hills, making our way towards the enchanting Castelo de São Jorge. I find visiting these ancient fortresses in different locales to be truly ethereal experiences.
We explored the expansive grounds surrounding the castle, navigating through its ancient ruins and admiring panoramic views of the Atlantic, the cityscape, and the pastoral landscapes. Afterwards, we strolled towards the Arco de Rua Augusta, a significant stone arch and landmark situated in Lisbon's Praça do Comércio district. Notably, this arch was erected to commemorate the city's reconstruction following the devastating earthquake of 1755. In the vicinity, we discovered a museum dedicated to Portugal's national dish, cod. Entering the museum, we indulged in tastings of bacalhau frito, fried cod cake, and sampled fine Porto wine.
Next, we visited the renowned Bertrand Bookstore, established in 1732 and recognized by Guinness World Records as the oldest bookstore globally. The ambiance of this bookstore was simply enchanting. We were captivated by the selection and each purchased Fernando Pessoa’s Portuguese/English version of his poem "Book of Disquiet." Settling into Bertrand’s cafe, we enjoyed a glass of wine while immersing ourselves in Pessoa’s poetry. Additionally, I bought a Portuguese cookbook as a special gift for my mother. To commemorate our visit, the cashier kindly stamped both purchases with a label affirming they were acquired at the Oldest Bookstore in the World.
Afterwards we continued to celebrate Fernando Pessoa by dining at his favorite restaurant in Lisbon, Cafe a Brasileira. Here, Gothic style of art permeated the walls, as gold was everywhere. His books laid all throughout the restaurant. We shared bife à brasileira, a thin cut sirloin steak in a coffee mustard creme. It was so delicious.
Then, we continued our gastronomic adventure by heading to Time Out Market. Time Out Market exists in many cities throughout the world, but somehow, I have never been before! Julia introduced me to a caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail, that is made with cahaga, lime, and ice. Here, as the tables are all combined for guests, we met many new friends from around the world.
Friday evening, Julia and I took the train to Faro, Portugal, the capital of the Algarve region in Portugal, to visit one of our best friend’s Emma, and her family who lives in Faro! It has been a few months since we last saw Emma, so seeing her for the first time in so long was so heartwarming and exciting. We met her at her apartment, and spent the evening talking, talking, and more talking. We prepared a charcuterie board, a tradition we always indulged with back home in the States, but this time using products from her grandparents’ favorite vendor down the street. These were probably the best green olives I have ever had!
Continuing our culinary adventure, we ventured to Time Out Market, a global phenomenon that had somehow eluded me until now. Here, Julia introduced me to the iconic caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail, crafted with cachaça, lime, and ice. Amidst the communal tables, we had the pleasure of mingling with fellow food enthusiasts from around the world, enriching our experience even further.
That evening ushered us onto a train headed for Faro, Portugal, the capital of the Algarve region, to see our friend Emma and her family. Gathering at her apartment, we spent the evening laughing and catching up. As a special touch, we curated a charcuterie spread, something we always do back home, but sourcing ingredients from the vendors nearby. Among the array of delights, the green olives definitely stood out.
On Saturday morning, we woke up to a beautiful sunny and rainy sky. Emma introduced us to her downtown, and we had coffee and Portuguese pastries at her favorite cafe. We had many pasteis de natas, in addition to trying traditional Portuguese breakfast delights! We had risole de camarão, a small shrimp patty enclosed in a pastry and fried, bife croqueta, a croqueta filled with beef and cheese, and an empadão de galinha, a mini quiche filled with shredded chicken. To drink, we had gulão, which is the Portuguese version of a café au lait, consisting of about one quarter coffee and about three quarters foamed milk, served in a tall and thin clear glass. Then, we wandered through downtown, marveling at the vibrant and beachy atmosphere accentuated by the colorful tiles adorning the streets and buildings.
From there, we embarked on a scenic hour-long drive to Portimão, one of Emma’s family’s favorite places. Arriving at the picturesque beachside town, we had an authentic Portuguese lunch by the sea. Our meal commenced with glasses of refreshing sangria and a delectable appetizer of pão com sardinha de pâta, featuring bread paired with savory sardine pâté and accompanied by plump olives. For our main courses, we shared a feast of mussels, filetes de polvo algarve, grilled garlic prawns, and my personal favorite, porco à alentejana. Served in a sizzling skillet, porco à alentejana boasted succulent pork filet, tender clams, and potatoes, seasoned with a tantalizing blend of white wine, garlic, red pepper, and paprika.
The celebration of the weekend continued. We returned home, and got ready for Emma’s cousin’s birthday dinner. Stepping into a quaint hole-in-the-wall restaurant, we were warmly welcomed by a bustling gathering of Emma's extended family. Over the course of four joyous hours, we revealed ourselves in each other's company, relishing the most delectable and authentic cuisine. The atmosphere evoked fond memories of my own Italian family gatherings back home. It was a familiar scene: gathering at a beloved familial restaurant in my grandmother's hometown, where generations have gathered for decades. Here, we would linger for hours, savoring every moment with loved ones and indulging in the finest fare. This cherished tradition of shared meals and cherished moments epitomized the essence of family and celebration.
I sat next to Emma’s sixteen year old cousin, Fonso, and we talked the entire time. I learned a lot from Fonso, especially how to not be shy and to always be yourself. He was truly a ray of sunshine.
For my meal, I ordered bacalhau à grelhado, which is grilled cured salt cod. Again, Portugal’s national food is cod, so of course, I had to order it! For the Portuguese, “cod is God” because they love the flavor of the fish after it has been cured with salt, and the texture that has the flesh come apart in fakes that are easy on the pot and on the palate. It has been economically crucial for Portugal since the Roman Empire of being the leading exporter of cod worldwide.
My friends shared bitoque, another traditional hearty Portuguese dish, which is thin cut sirloin steak with a fried egg on top paired with potatoes, and is usually split amongst two or more people on special occasions. Fonso and his grandfather shared espetada terre y mar, beer and shrimp kebabs. Espetada is a term used to grill food on skewers and is a traditional cooking method in Portuguese cuisine, and the wooden skewers are made from bay leaves to give the meat more of a unique flavor. So many others of Emma’s family order the same dishes we did, along with other typical seafood and meat entrees. For dessert, Emma’s grandmother prepared one of the best cakes I have ever tasted. She made almond cake albufeira, which is a fluffy cake made of almond flour on the bottom and topped with a toffee almond nougat icing. Wow!
